Thursday, January 18, 2018

two weeks in Morocco

During 2017 I went with 3 friends to Morocco for a couple of weeks, of course looking at textiles wherever possible. Loved the trip and all that we saw - it was a trip for the senses, with sights, sounds, textures, tastes and smells topped with fabulous decoration, craftsmanship and colour.
I've been asked why I hadn't posted pictures, so here goes... Choosing just some pictures from the many is difficult. It will take a few posts...

We flew to Dubai and then on to Casablanca. It's a very busy commercial/industrial centre and port, but the must see, is the amazing Hassan II Mosque. It is the largest mosque in Morocco, built in the 10 years to 1993. Just a few of the details - the minaret is 60 stories high topped by a laser, the light from which is directed to Mecca. It stands on a promontary looking out to the Atlantic Ocean. The walls are of hand crafted marble, the roof is retractable, the big external doors are titanium and a maximum of 105,000 worshippers can gather together for prayer - 20,00 men and 5000 women inside and another 80,000 in the outer grounds.
 









 Then we travelled on to the capital Rabat, along the Atlantic coast
  ... saw a demonstration in the city centre
 ... saw one of the many palaces. They are all guarded by 3 services - the palace guards, gendarmes and military
 
 ... saw the Royal mausoleum with its stunning interior and exterior decoration

 and the ruins of a roman temple in front,
 alongside the city mosque


Close up photos of the guards in their colourful uniforms, here on the forecourt and guarding the mausoleum both inside and out, are encouraged whereas it is not allowed at the palace gates. Splendid embroidery on the horse.
The holes in the old mud brick walls are left from the wooden scaffolding during construction. They've not been filled as they serve as expansion gaps. 

Near this complex was a small market area taking advantage of the tourists,
Water sellers traditionally sold cups of water for a few dirham, the water being poured from camel leather bags into brightly polished brass or tin cups. Today these costumed water sellers frequent the tourist spots making money not from selling water but from vacationers who pay to photograph them.

 Also on offer was henna painting. The paint caked off soon after but the stain stayed with me for about a week.
Then to Kasbah Oudaias on the site of the 12th century ribat or fortress-monastery that gave the city its name. Renovated many times over the centuries it has been home to Arab tribes, Andalusian immigrants and some of the country's most powerful sultans. Predominantly residential now, its narrow streets are lined with whitewashed houses, most of which were built by Muslim refugees from Spain. Loved the painted doorways and leafy courtyards.



From there we travelled to Chefchaouen in the Rif Mountains. That can wait until next time, but a note to finish on - the place names present some pronunciation challenges when they string 4 vowels together!

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